In the autumn-winter season of 2022, we will go back in time to the controlled kitsch of the 80s and minimalist 90s, appreciate the power of a white T-shirt and discover the great potential that lies in a good jacket. In fashion, driving is promising. Let’s go!
Suits with trousers and skirts, wool double-breasted jackets, tuxedos and even ties – the office-inspired wardrobe is androgynous, retro and chic. Her advantage? Elements of this look can be found not only in new collections, but also in vintage stores.
Supermaksi is a worthy alternative to ultramini. Skirts and dresses were not to the ankles, literally to the floor. Made of wool, leather or silk, the models can have a matching column shape or widen slightly downwards. They will be a pronounced solution for the evening – look for inspiration, for example, in the Saint Laurent collection, and a silk or satin skirt should be combined with a tuxedo jacket, large bracelets and, obligatory, glasses.
His cloak of majesty
If you only want to invest in one thing, let it be a coat – fleshy, oversized, cloaked or pastel, long on the floor or made of faux fur. The rest of the styling can be approached with casualness or even controlled self-denial. After all, the slob-ebrity trend is still going strong.
Shock and disbelief
The stranger, the better – such a principle was adopted by a large group of designers when creating collections for autumn-winter 2022. Their timing could not have been better – in July a major retrospective of Elsa Schiaparelli’s work will open in Paris, that will explore her connections with surrealists and the influence of whatever trend he had for her projects. Surrealistic motifs appeared in her fashion house’s latest collection, for which the American Daniel Roseberry designs, as well as in new proposals from Balenaciaga, Y/Project and Loewe. Contemporary makers, such as the authors of the “Surrealist Manifesto” and the main representatives of this trend in art, build projects around the avant-garde and irony, asking questions about the meaning of fashion and the role it plays in daily life.
Work on the basics
Looking at the minimalist designs from the Autumn-Winter 2022 collection, it’s impossible not to think about the retroversion of this 90s aesthetic – the designs of Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela or the combinations in which the then style icon Carolyn Bessette – Kennedy felt the best. Christpher Esber, Miuccia Prada and Matthieu Blazy take the most basic garments on the pedestal. A white T-shirt becomes the star – in the Prada collection it’s paired with silk and lace pencil skirts, and at Bottega Veneta with jeans that only pretend to be jeans, but are actually made of thick, indigo-dyed leather.
Long live the 80s!
Older millennials also get a good dose of nostalgia from designers. After the 90s, the fashion motifs of the previous decade return. A taste of the return of the ejtis aesthetic was already visible in the spring-summer 2022 collections – thanks mainly to Anthony Vaccarello, who dedicated his Saint Laurent designs to then-it girl Paloma Picasso. In the autumn season, the Italian fashion houses Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni and Versace eagerly grab the controlled kitsch of those years.
In the fall-winter season of 2022, corsets will no longer be just icons of the Y2K trend – they will appear as elements of elegant stylizations, combinations that refer to the 80s or sporty looks. They will also have different incarnations – sometimes they will strongly outline the waist sewn into pencil dresses, sometimes they will act as tops and in yet another they will take on the role of jackets.
The Addams family
Pending the serial remake of the 1991 cult film (directed by Tim Burton, production – Netflix), which will tell the story of the daughter of Morticci and Gomez Addams, each of us will be able to stylize ourselves on Wednesday as a descendant of the ghost family . Designers propose this dark style in different versions – sometimes they choose a deliberately exaggerated version, sometimes they encourage it. In Christopher Kane’s collection, darkness becomes glamour.
To the party, March
Maximalism remains with us for the next season and, as in the previous one, will fight for the palm of priority with simplicity. Extravagant combinations, intricate details and reduced structures are not exclusively reserved for evening wear. A sequin top and a gray wool suit sounds like a perfect combination.
Full of volume, “puffed” bombers and sheepskin aviator jackets will be one of the most fashionable outerwear of the season. They will be used in different styles – from everyday to evening, in normcores inspired by Ye West’s wardrobe and avant-garde with the Loewe label. Pilot license optional.